Axolotls - Frequently Asked Questions
individual animals can be traced all the way back to an original large group ofaxolotls . Adult axanthic axolotls cannot be distinguished uneqpivocally from .. sheds the eggs over a period of one to two days, usually in groups separated by . front of the axolotl's face, to stop forward motion, and use the other hand to . Axolotls are almost extinct in their native habitat, largely due to the shaking his tail for about half a minute, and will then move forward one body length. From to eggs are deposited in the water and attached to substrates. . The name axolotl should be used only when referring to A. mexicanum and not to any . Question: Eggs stopped developing Axolotl Eggs, Larvae & Breeding. start, my assumption was they were not moving along the way the eggs.
While clearly planning to describe the Laguna de Zacupa animals as a new species, Anderson died before publishing this work, and in the species was 'discovered' anew by Ronald A. Brandon and Ronald Altig. By combining Anderson's notes and draft manuscript with new data, Brandon and Salome Krebs later published the species, naming it after Anderson. Its webbed, flattened toes are particularly short and it has a low number of gill rakers compared to other neotenous mole salamanders.
A prominent keel is present on the lateral side of the hindfoot. In total length it reaches 21 cm [A. The robust body, short tail and relatively small body fin of A. As with some other neotenous species, in its wild state A. Individuals have spontaneously metamorphosed in the laboratory however, and in a few cases the metamorphosed animals lived on for a couple of years.
The claim that Laguna Alchichica is saline is not at all clear-cut]. It's still true that lissamphibians cannot tolerate the sorts of salinities that amniotes can, but it is not true that anurans or caudates are thoroughly unable to deal with at least some salinity. Brackish water can be tolerated by the larvae and adults of some species: Within Laguna Alchichica, A. The lake has a maximum depth of 64 m, but - as is typical for deep lakes - is thought by local people to be bottomless [A.
Phylogenetic studies indicate that A. Are neotenous mole salamanders particularly closely related to one another, or has neoteny simply cropped up repeatedly among different mole salamander lineages? Actually, both possibilities are supported by different parts of the cladogram. Some neotenous taxa really are very close relatives e. I had planned to write more about the obscure axolotl-like species, but conference preparation and a long list of other jobs are calling, so I have to leave it there.
Please visit the EDGE amphibians site if you want more information. Remember also that we're trying to bring the global amphibian crisis to wider attention this year, and that is Year of the Frog.
If you're concerned about the plight of axolotls and the many other endangered amphibians of the world, please do add your name to the Amphibian Ark online petition. Refs - - Fitzpatrick, B. Hybrid vigor between native and introduced salamanders raises new challenges for conservation. Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences A new species of salamander family Ambystomatidae from Michoacan, Mexico. Phylogenetics of model organisms: Axolotls are usually more inclined to try new foods once they've had nothing to eat for a few days.
Frequently Asked Questions
Have you looked at the Breeding Page? You may find it helpful if your water is hard or if you use Holtfreter's solution. Read my opinion on tank mates. As such, if you want to import or export an axolotl from one signatory country to another, or out of a signatory country, you will need a permit. The axolotl is an endangered species in the wild, but vast numbers are bred in captivity each year for scientific research and the pet trade.
As long as you acquired your axolotl in your own country from a dealer who has followed the required procedures, you don't have to worry about the treaty. Some countries have further legislation dealing with amphibians. For example, as far as I'm aware, the Axolotl is the only species of foreign salamander or newt that it is legal to keep as a pet in Australia. You can happily keep adult axolotls together.
Axolotls under 10 cm 4 inches in length are more inclined to nip each other, so give them more space if kept together.
Adults will happily coexist, just make sure the axolotls can't swallow one of their tank mates. As I found out the hard way, don't be surprised if you end up with eggs one day though. You can keep larval ambystomatids with axolotls of similar size. That includes larval tiger salamanders, spotted salamanders, etc. I wouldn't keep other species with them though because some species secrete toxins that can poison other salamanders.
No, it's not normal. It is true that adult axolotls don't move much. They spend most of their time on the bottom of their tanks.
Young ones tend to swim around a lot more. However, an axolotl that swims around very rapidly and crashes into the glass like you describe has usually just been badly frightened. If they see a sudden movement that they think is a predator, or a light goes on in a dark room, they sometimes take off around the tank, swimming straight into the side of the tank. So try not to startle the animal.
You might want to put some hiding places like an old piece of plastic pipe or a half-flower pot in the tank so it can hide. After a while I've found axolotls tend to relax and become used to activity in the room with them. Another cause can be skin irritation. A good sign of this is if the animal thrashes around as if trying to shake something off. I've even seen axolotls chase their tails in a circle due to irritation.
One possible cause of skin irritation is parasites. There is one, the Axolotl Mailing List. You can join at that link. There are quite a number of enthusiasts on it and it is quite active. Anyone is welcome and the subscribers are a nice bunch. Well I would say that, I'm one of them. So you want to buy axolotls. You've come to the right place. This is the best advice you'll find on the subject so take note.
I personally don't often have axolotls for sale but the best place, no matter where in the world you are, to find axolotls for sale or trade is the For Sale Section of Caudata. From about November to June each year there are usually many advertisements there for axolotls for sale from breeders who are hobbyists like you. As I write this, there are leucistic, melanoid, wildtype, albino and green fluorescent protein axolotls available in the for sale section of caudata.
One of the big advantages of buying axolotls this way instead of from a company or commercial breeder is that you can look at the breeder's history on caudata. It's also the cheapest way of acquiring axolotls or axolotl eggs because most hobbyists just want to find a good home for their axolotl offspring rather than trying to make money off you like some companies I hear about.
Finally, if you are thinking of buying axolotls from a company on the Internet, I advise you to contact me through the contact link on this page and ask me what I know about them, or you can ask on the forum at caudata. Perfectly healthy animals do this from time to time. I call it the "tunnel of doom" because it looks like you can see right to their stomach.
I have seen very sick animals yawn repeatedly, say once every second to five seconds, for about 20 seconds. It's very distressing to watch, but an animal in this state is usually recognised as being ill weeks before this happens. I recommend you look at the Genetics Page but I will give an explanation here. Melanoid axolotls that aren't albinos have no reflective colour cells iridophoresvery few yellow colour cells xanthophores and a lot of extra dark colour cells melanophoresso they look black or very dark brown.
The easiest way of telling a melanoid animal from a normal animal is the eyes - because there are no reflective colour cells there is no reflective ring around the eye like that found in normal axolotls.
In albinos though, there are no dark cells at all. If you combine this with the melanoid trait, this gives a melanoid albino.
Such an animal has no dark colour, no reflective cells no ring around the eye as a result and very little yellow, making it appear white but with the odd yellow blotch on its side, back and head if you look closely.
A white melanoid albino has the white trait. The white trait basically stops pigment from spreading from the back and top of the head of the animal to the rest of the body, so white melanoid albinos are like melanoid albinos with no yellow on the sides and perhaps only a tiny amount on the back or head. The ordinary albino is golden with a reflective ring around the eye and a white albino is white but it also has the reflective ring around the eye.
Well, it's generally not a good idea to breed brother with sister, son with mother, daughter with father because there is no new genetic material and this can lead to genetic problems over the generations. Most axolotl stock in the world is related to some extent and has been interbred quite a lot. This means that unless you have a trait that you are trying to fix into a breeding line, then inbreeding is not a good idea.
Having said that, it probably would be ok as a once off, but a lot of the axolotls that are sold by pet shops are themselves inbred because their parents were brother and sister. Your axolotl is not an albino. It is a white axolotl otherwise known as leucistic. The difference between a leucistic axolotl and a wild type the brown or grey kind is that the leucistic has a genetic trait that prevents pigment cells moving from the top of the body to the rest of the body, so at best they have a few dark spots on their back and head some only have a smudge on the head or no dark pigment at all.
Real albinos have pinkish eyes and no dark spots at all. Axolotls tend to breed between December and June, with perhaps the best time being around March, although they can breed at any time of the year.
You probably won't see many in winter or spring, but late spring to autumn would correspond with the time that those born at the beginning of the year would be reaching a saleable size.
However, the best way of acquiring them is to find a shop that sells reptiles and amphibians and ask them to order some in for you. Sounds like "temporary anemia" not anemia in the sense of lack of red blood cells but rather low levels of oxygenated blood which gives the red colour to the gillssince it normally disappears after at most a few hours. There can be any number of causes of this. It seems to be more common in water that is not hard, so try using a little Holtfreter's solution.
Common causes of temporary anemia are stress caused by flowing water, bacterial disease, or sometimes becoming sexually mature. Sometimes this seems to happen if the animal stays still for very long periods of time, although this could just be coincidence. No, they will breed at almost any water temperature. Numerous books mention that a "cold shock" to the water, such as that caused by adding ice, will cause mating to take place, but at best this seems to only stimulate the male.
In temperate regions, one strategy is to leave the male and female together all year round, but letting the water temperature and light vary with the seasons. This seems to result in regular early spring breeding. However, another strategy is to keep the temperature and lighting constant year round but to keep the sexes separate, only introducing them to each other when mating is required.
They have been known to eat plants, but since they don't have a digestive system that's built for digesting plants as well as meat, they probably don't get much benefit from the plants.
Axolotls are not blind. They seem to have quite good eyesight actually. Mine will "beg" at me by swimming up to the water surface and hanging their at the front of the glass when I walk into the room, long before I get to the tank. They do have a very well developed lateral line and sensory system. They can detect electrical fields and vibrations in the water, in the same way that fish do. For example, this means they can sense something sinking through the water near them, even if they can't see it.
Well in certain parts of the world they seem to be hard to acquire, but I find more albinos than non-albinos where I live, and this is often the case in other places too. I would keep one in a rectangular tank one that is longer than it is high. I don't think hexifun tanks are a good idea because they don't let as much air into and out of the water.
Yes, though I recommend plastic plants because when axolotls decide to swim violently around a tank and they do every now and thenreal plants could be uprooted and damaged. Tough plants like amazon sword are a good choice if you want real plants. It would be adequate, but only for a small tank with one axolotl.
You should look at undergravel filtration or gentle-flow power filters for more axolotls and larger tanks. Have a look at my Housing Page. Any aquarium lighting can be used, just be sure that the water isn't overheated by the light a common problem with halogen bulbs and that the axolotl can hide somewhere from the light if it chooses.
If your axolotl shows obvious signs of having problems with the light after it has had a period to adjust to it, you would be advised to try a different type of bulb or a less bright bulb. I recommend you use larger sized gravel that an adult axolotl can't fit in its mouth pebbles are probably a better description. It's better to be safe rather than sorry. Look at my Housing Page for more information. Usually axolotls will pass gravel without problems.
To be sure of this, put the axolotl on its own in a bare bottomed tank for a week or two.
However, occasionally gravel can get lodged in the gut and the animal doesn't pass it as soon as it should. In this case, there's not a lot you can do. Isolate it as before in a bare bottomed tank. This will help reduce bacterial activity so there will be minimal gas build up beyond the blockage otherwise the axolotl will float and they tend not to like that - it just stresses them further. To reduce the stress from floating, it's helpful to reduce the level of water so that the axolotl, although floating, can touch the bottom, so it won't struggle and stress itself unnecessarily.
Usually the blockage will clear itself after a week or two. If it doesn't start to pass the gravel after 2 weeks, the only other idea I have heard of is in Peter W.
ADW: Ambystoma mexicanum: INFORMATION
He suggests that one attempts to force-feed the axolotl with the blockage some mineral oil I think by that he means castor oil, the kind they give to people. In my own opinion though, that could do a lot more harm than good because axolotls are very soft bodied animals and you could easily crush its jaw or other parts of its body by trying to force feed it.
Well fed axolotls can usually go without eating for up to 3 weeks and suffer no long term effects, provided the water temperature isn't over 60F. Is the axolotl still trying to eat?