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Explore Jewel Harris's board "replacement cargo trailer parts" on Pinterest. | See more ideas about Car hauler trailer, Trailers for sale and Box trailer. That is one determined Mama! What others are saying. "Mom . Meet Bruce the Gardener. They cost more and are harder to find in smaller sizes but it would .. I've owned lots of enclosed trailers, and my current two I own are both single axle. . Here's a better pic of the Threshold Plate which covers the gap between the trailer and the door where they meet. .. My mom dropped me on my head. Matches 1 - 25 of Toy Hauler RVs For Sale - Find New or Used Toy Hauler RVs on catchsomeair.us We sell trailer at the lowest possible prices and will meet or beat any .. Cruiser Rv Stryker 17'8Ft Cargo/Two Slideouts / Onan Gen/ .. Your kids can have their own space up in the loft, and mom and.
Hart looking around I can not find a "Vortech trailer dealer Am I off base?
Any idea of where to look? David, its not really "shrink" wrap its stretch wrap, like heavy duty Saran wrap and is available at Lowes,Home depot etc. David,here is my 2 cents. As far as trailers go I have nothing useful to add. But here are my comments on your tow vehicle. When your Aerostar was new I was in the car business. I would never have recommended an Aerostar for this job when it was new. Or for that matter the similar platform Ranger pickup.
For one,it is not just a matter of go,it is a matter of whoa. These are fine for towing a small outboard,etc. Another point is the extended Aerostar is extended in body only,not wheelbase.
Even with a frame mounted hitch you will get some interesting oversteer problems due to the extra body length levering your rear wheels sideways.
Ford got to participate in many lawsuits due to terrible multiple fatality accidents because the extension of the bodies and not the wheelbase on both the Aerostar and Econoline. Somebody would load a bunch of heavy band,etc,equipment behind the back seat,load up with kids,head out on slick roads and the rest is history. Now,the AWD facet of this. Speed sensors in the rear axles sense wheelspin. That automatically engages the transfer case.
Also it has a center differential. We had trouble with these when new,under warranty. And not pulling a trailer,either If you want me to Ford bash,get me on the subject of the specially, cheaply built OEM Firestone tires. But on the whole, Ford,in my opinion, has built fewer pieces of junk than GM or Chrysler And,yes,I know there are people that have pulled a cabin cruiser with a Yugo The previous owner used it for a Model T and he died in an accident not in the T.
He had some longer ramps, but his widow could not find them. The short ramps is the only drawback. It is a bit hard to load, because I have to go quite fast to get up the ramp without stalling and then can't see a thing until I get to the top. Have to aim right and be able to stop as soon as it is up. I am fortunate to have Ruckstell in all my T's and so can use low low and have the power to ascend a bit more slowly. If I get around to it some day would like to build longer ramps. David, the question in the subject line is "Which trailer do you prefer?
Fortunately, there was a Plan B. Since we didn't win the lottery, we have a 12' flatbed open trailer tandem axle and electric brakes and we pull it with an Explorer. It has worked well for us. If the lottery win happens some day, we'll consider upgrading. David,There are differances between springs and torsion axels,and i think most will agree the later is better. Torsion usually rides lower and lower is better. Many start with a open trailer then switch to enclosed. Rember whichever you decide Longer will handle better and give you more options as to where,what,how,and on and on.
By Nelson Jones on Tuesday, December 23, - For what its worth I have been towing various trailers for about 50yrs.
My advice is to use the best towing equipment available. An enclosed trailer is the best in my opinion for all of the things that have been mentioned but one thing that was not mentioned was the pressure put on a windshield at hiway speeds.
The windshield would probably take more but I felt comfortable at I built my trailer using a 16ft car hauler. I would liked to have used aluminum for the skelton but I am not equiped to weld aluminum.
I slanted the front to cut down on wind resistance. I pull it with a 07 Avalance. Much has been said about which trailer to buy and I will not repeat it here. A couple little nice tidbits I did add to my enclosed trailer was an outside electrical hook up socket which allows me to hook up to power if available when parked. On the inside I added on each side in the top corner a 4 ft flouresence shop lite that gives me plenty of light for night time on tour repairs.
Second I had 4 floor tie down installed off center to the left. This gives me more room on the right side to get in and out of the car while in the trailer. You can drive a roadster into a lower roofed trailer than you can a touring car because the top of the roadster is inside the trailer while the rear wheels are still on the lower ramp level.
If you have a closed car you will either need an 8 foot wide trailer or a 7 footer with a door on the side for exiting. If you use a 7 footer you may have to purchase a winch to get it in because you can't get out once the car is in.
A trailer with a factory installed winch will have a battery in it and the correct wiring for keeping the battery charged. If you get an 8 footer get a slope nosed one.
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I got 20 miles to the gallon with my Dodge Cummins with an 8 foot slope nose and 18 mpg with a 7 foot wide flat nosed one. Put the top up on you car and see if you can drive it into your garage. If it fits measure the height of the door and get a trailer with an opening that size. The beaver tail is very nice and a ramp door is good for old men.
Paint some epoxy paint on the floor with a double coat on the ramp. I throw sand into the paint as I am rolling it and I never skid when I am pressure washing the inside. Bolt a drip pan on the floor with four lag screws and grab washers. I paint the inside of the trailer with prime and then gloss white for better visibility. I have had my Haulmark out of Springdale Utah for over ten years and love it. It takes six weeks to get it built so don't order it in the dead of winter.
I orderderd mine in March and picked it up in late April. I think all the trailer companies each have several factories. The more you pay the better the trailer and more trick you add to it the more you will enjoy it. Order the trailer as a bare bones and get a receipt for it.
Then get another receipt for the accessories. They don;t belong to the trailer so why pay license fees for them if you live in a State like California where the tax your taxes. The companies give you the correct temporary convoy paper work so you can take it home without buying a license for it where it was built. Get the trailer spare mounted on the side wall up high. Do not mount it in a well under the Model T car unless you like to play in and out on the side of the road.
Get a good jack and a good hitch. I like an 18 inch draw bar because I don't kiss the corners of the trailer on tight corners and when moving around in close quarters in parking lots. They usually put the floor tie down D rings where you don't want them. Be sure to cross strap the belts when you place your car in there for towing out in the big world.
If you get a new trailer you can save as much as two dollars a mile if you pick it up at the factory. Get a stone guard and have them give you some extra running lights when you go pick it up. Trailers have a lot of clearance lights on them. A lot of the wiring is simply grounded to the aluminum side sheeting with pop rivets and after a while corrosion sets in and then you have a lot of fun tracing down faulty circuits.
You pays yer money and ye takes yer chances. Keep the dirty side down and the shiny side up. Frank, The items you pointed out are the same walk that I walked.
I also added Boggie rollers under the rear, LED lights, a winch and electric front jack. I also had flush mounted tie down track running the full length secured to the metal frame. Having it in the V-nose is great for securing things. You provided David much good advice.
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Les what are Boggie Rollers? My trailer is like Norm's. I opted for an open traler with utility sides, rather than a flatbed carhauler.
My trailer ends up being useful for swap meets and auction treasure hauling too. The advanages of open tralers are many: Versatility of use swaps, lawn debri, lumber, etc. There are drawbacks too: My father went the other route. He bought the big, tall, Wells Cargo with the beavertail and ramp door.
He stores his T or his ATV in it sometimes. He enjoys that fact that he never has to have Mom stand in the rain helping him put the top down at the end of a tour. He also likes that his car is safe from the weather and road debris when he's hauling it. He could have bought an additional T with the price difference between his trailer and mine, he still needs to keep his other trailer for hauling brush and toting his ATV around and that big traler pushes a lot of wind.
As for tow vehicles, I would nver consider an enclosed trailer unless I was planning to pull it with a full-size pickup, Suburban, Tahoe, etc. Those smaller outfits might be able to get by, but they'll never pull a big enclosed trailer safely or efficiently. In my experience I'm a proffessional driver who's pulled virtually everything with wheels, including a 'long axle rig, grosssing ,lb with a 72 ton payloadyou have to match the trailer to the job and the towing unit to the trailer.
You've taken good advice in deciding that a tandem axle trailer is best for hauling yourlb Model T. A single axle trailer will work in a pinch, but it's maxed out and doesn't leave much safety margin. Jerry, try googling "boogie rollers.
Frank says 7 or 8 foot but you can also go 8'6' on the outside for even more inside room. One advantage of the 8'6" outside is when i haull the enclosed in back of the 5'th wheel i can easly see the back trailer. By Frank Harris on Friday, December 26, - And another thing about trailer width.
Out here on the left coast we need more traffic lanes. Then they put a concrete rub rail on the right side and your 8 foot six trailer now has nine foot six inches in which to travel.
Don't sneeze or you will bump something. I have dealt with six inches for many years but I don't like only six inches when it is making sparks on the rub rail at night. By Jerry Hansen on Saturday, December 27, - Another squeeze with the wide track 8 ft 6 inch trailer are some area back roads ranging from 16 to 18 feet wide. The right side will many times be running on some rough berms and edges depending on the width.
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The trick is to stay in your lane with oncoming traffic in the event oncoming vehicle should hit the trailer, so the dirt, dust and rust falls in your lane to avoid a left of center ticket My open aluminum trailer is wide track and there have been a few instances I had to be on my toes bringing it back on the hard surface. Have a closed one 8 feet wide no real problem, the extra six does make a difference. I would think if a person is going to be traveling on a lot of narrow roads and is somewhat concerned about pulling a trailer; it might be to their ease of mind to stay with 8 feet wide or less By Ricks - Surf City on Saturday, December 27, - Some of your choice depends on what other use you have for the hauling rig.
Older 14' box vans are cheap, so won't depreciate much more. Then, when you get rich, you can tow another behind, having a tow vehicle that's up to the job at less risk. I won't say Safe, because towing has risks, no matter how you do it. No doubt about it there are places that add a signifigant pucker factor with the extra wide. If i was to use any truck i would want air suspension to adjust the ride to the weight haulled. Ramps are proably the most dangerous part of haulling so i think i would want a bifold ramp door.
Almost anything anyone has suggested will work,some just better than others! PS,Yup seen lots of pictures but the trick is to learn from mistakes before we make them ourselves. By John Berch on Saturday, December 27, - I ended up getting rid of my truck, so until I got my cargo van last year, the trailer was a "storage unit".
I continued to pay the trailer tag fee, because I could borrow my neighbor's truck. If you don't get a ramp door, you could do like I did. Have a removeable ramp built. The guys above are right I also added a rolling trailer lift to the tongue. Before, I had to back the truck up, connect it to the bumper, etc. I have a padlock on the hitch, and another lock inside the ball hitch.
It could still wander off from my driveway, but at least the thieves would have to work a little. Drewbdo So we've got lbs of family in the truck I would not recommend you show this page to your wife Honey, that NOT what I meant!! You may find yourself sleeping in the dog house, towed behind the trailer. D KayPlaya I didn't consider the homeowner's insurance policy. Actually I didn't consider insurance at. Quite honestly I need to get my DJ insurance in order asap especially since I've started buying all of this equipment.
At the moment, I'm only a renter so I believe i'd have to get renter's insurance. I got a cold call from my bank recently about creating a policy and I asked if my dj equipment would be covered, I was told since it was used for business it would not be. Sure there is someway I can get it covered in my garage, just have to do some research. As far as locks go, I'd be locking my trailer every possible way I know how allensmusic I only like a ramp on trailers over 7 foot inside height.
I've had both they each have there advantages and disadvantages and in the end its really a personal choice. Only problem is, I'm 6'4" tall. But I'm used to it. My mom dropped me on my head The ramp door was not an option. I got a sweet deal on the trailer.
One of the guys in my battalion used it as a mobile TOC. It has the swinging door. There wasn't really an effective way to change to a ramp door. The handyman who designed and built the custom shelving for me built the ramp. He also installed a custom bracket on the front of the trailer to hold the ramp. It drops into the bracket and latches in place. The only time I use it is when my lower back is giving me trouble, but it has been a life-saver those occasions. As I say, currently I use it more as a stationary storage unit.
Cheaper than a rental locker, more convenient then a rental storage unit, and easier to pull to a gig. May give you some ideas. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Drewbdo Obviously wasn't finished loading, but it may give you some ideas for how to build out the inside of your trailer. If you can use the walls for shelving or hangers, you can get a lot more efficient use of the space. Just be sure it is solid, so you don't have gear fall off.
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The lowest shelf was set at a height to allow the K12's and turntables to fit underneath. The top shelves were set to fit my plastic bins, which are Sterilite bins from Target. Locking lids and clear sides make these bins perfect for my use. They probably would not hold up well for rental or production gear, but I'm very careful with my stuff. Tie or strap stuff down, so it won't bounce or wiggle or roll around.
Use over head space if you can, but be careful not to over load or it could damage your roof supports. Quite a bit of equipment my man!! I like the way your trailer is set up with the shelving. Definitely makes a good use of the space in there, especially since if i'm not mistaken you stated it was a 5x8.
Doing something similar to that is a feature I will be certainly considering. Lucky for me I know a good carpenter! It is about 6' interior height. The handyman I hired was a genius with using the space. He is a great craftsman. I hired him to do other work for us after seeing his work in the trailer. However, since I tow it very infrequently at this point events insame this yearand it serves primarily as a stationary storage unit at my home, I haven't wanted to spend the money. My trailer is always locked, even in the garage.
Puck locks for the side and ramp doors: It's always locked in my garage unless I'm at a gig. My neighbours all know if someone besides me is hooking up to the trailer it's being stolen. As for hitting you head.
I do it every once in awhile. But damn it hurts when I do lol I had to order my trailer without a roof vent. That gives me about 4" of clearance. I live on a half acre property and trailer size is of no real concern to me. KayPlaya Here's the locks I use. Lock for the tongue Because of the lower height I have a hand truck 2 actually that tilts back to 45 degrees. I myself will definitely be going to whatever lengths reasonably possibly to safeguard my future trailer from being stolen. Being able to store in my garage and because I have a standard size 2-car, I need to make sure I get a trailer that fits inside.
Gotta make a note to go take measurements and get a trailer that entire length will be covered. I have considered the E-track myself but not permanent shelving installs. Well I haven't made it to the property big leagues yet! Good point though Gotta get something that I can store in my garage. I live in a town without a sewage treatment plant. I'm in a town of 10, It's not exactly The Bronx. But it's an industrial town and everyone "knows someone with a grinder or cutting torch" so I keep it inside to be safe.
I wouldn't leave it loaded up outside. You definitely won't be able to stand in such a trailer. Mine is too tall for a garage, and I still bump my head sometimes. If you decide you don't want one that will fit in the garage for this reason, I recommend getting one tall enough that you can stand upright going thru the door in. Guess I do have to consider height as well. I'm 5'9 so a little on the shorter side so as long as the trailer's inside height is 6ft I'm okay with that.
Even though having one that fits in my garage limits my options there, having one that doesn't fit in my garage limits my options in other areas. Most notable I'd have to pay a storage place to securely store it since I wouldn't park it in my drive way. I would consider some type of lowering option for the trailer to to help with the garage clearance too though.
Don't know much about trailer suspension so I don't know how it would work, but I would consider it allensmusic Even though having one that fits in my garage limits my options their, having one that doesn't fit in my garage limits my options in other areas. Most notable I'd have to pay a storage place to keep it so it secure since I wouldn't store it in my drive way.
Don't know much about trailer suspension so I don't know how it would work, but I would consider it the easy way to lower a trailer is shorter tires. My next house will have a 3 car garage, 9' doors. Drewbdo Here's the locks I use. So, it lives in the drive way in front of the garage. I think my house was built by short carpenters. I want to get a vinyl wrap advertising my DJ business. I just bought very similar puck locks for my cargo van, and will have the vinyl wrap guy install them. I'm thinking about getting a LoJack installed also.
Like my dad said, "Help an honest person stay honest. Lock for the tongue http: Before I gave it to my dad, we had a two-wheel car carrier dolly. Someone tried to steal it from our yard, and the lock is the only thing that prevented the theft. They left it in the middle of our street, where we found it the next morning.
Because of the lower height I have a hand truck 2 actually that tilts back to 45 degrees. Do you tilt the cart back, and that let's you roll the cart right into the trailer? Or does it get the gear to a good height, so you just slide the gear up over the cart handles onto the trailer floor?
Yeah, I had to sacrifice interior height to get it in the garage. I'm 5'11" so it's not too bad, have to crouch a bit. I guess I'm confused by this.