the Basics
Cozumel is one solid mass and easily traveled. We’ve learned that staying in Cozumel’s famous Northwest Country Club beach offers more riding literally “outside your door” than any other area. With several houses and condos for rent, most budgets and groups are quite happy. Renting a car is a must so you can also hit the east coast surf. And, if you want to experience magical kiting, hiring a guide is the best way to Cozumel's boat access only northern lagoons.
A favorite among all Air Retreaters, these desolate lagoons hold incredibly smooth water and curious wildlife. Sea tortoises, large rays and eels were often sighted below our fins. Several sunken boats make excellent sliders and “launches.” While almost unnoticeable, there are tides which raise the sandbars within inches of the surface. When exposed, these tiny islands make unbelievable launching pads. When eating it, we learned lagoon bottoms are not as beautiful as they look. Keeping our feet off the bottom avoided all the hard sharp stuff down there, and a trip to the local hospital.
Around the Yucatan Caribbean, the kiteboarding season is pretty long. "Always hot" is a term you'll often hear from those returning from Cozumel. Other than August and September, it’s pretty windy. Best winds are found mid-November through April when as trades average 15-20kts. While thermals usually pick-up in most afternoons, we found ourselves kiting many mornings in comparable winds. The crazy clear turquoise oceans require no thermal protection.
With plenty of white sand, true wave riding is found on Cozumel's eastern coast and is often filled with heavy current, reef and shore break. 20 minutes by car is all that separated our lagoon sessions from clean chest to head high faces. We were often reminded that warm waters mean more reef. Keeping a close watch between the waves revealed several high risk areas. We just drove down to a cleaner spot. Waves were nice, real nice.
Cozumel has a wind pattern where you get days with moderate NE winds, great sideshore conditions for the NW Country Club coast. With approaching fronts, they tend to switch East, which is side-on for the wave coast. After a front, you might get a Southerly day offering rare chances to kite over the world’s second largest barrier reef.
During winter & spring, Cozumel has warm waters and very little rain, though the nights can cool down into the 60s’. Summers are simply hot. And, there’s often heavy rains in the afternoon as moisture cools in the atmosphere after a warm day.
One Kiter's Journal
On this trip, things were way more extreme! Last year's Air Retreat averaged 15-20kts over 9 days straight. Except for one day trip to the lagoons, we kited right in front of our houses. The kiting was really good, and people just worked on individual skills.
But on this last retreat...holy whoa! Somehow bestowed as the main camera guy, I saw riders taking it to levels I thought were outside of our little retreats. They were so intense, that I can personally attest to finding new confidence (or stupidity) in trying some pretty hardcore stuff. Let me explain...
The lagoons go up once, then down twice Last year, I took a reps new flat kite and followed him about 4 miles upwind from our Country Club pad to the lagoons. This year, I took a reps new flat kite, an Ocean Rodeo Rise, and decided to charge upwind by myself. I couldn't believe a year had gone by since I last did this. That was until I came across the boat. Abandoned after running ashore a sandbar, this passenger ferry was about 80' long and was rusting quickly. I circled it a few times in awe, starring at the name glistening beyond the rust. It was properly titled "catch the wave." A discovery that would be exposed the next day.
After landing on a sandbar in the lagoon's crystal waters, I notice a white / green kite floating above the tree line. After a short break, a fellow retreater arrives on the sand bar, with my personal kite! Completely stoked to get in some freestyle, we exchanged kites and headed downwind through flats, then waves, to more flats. This was all on our first morning in Cozumel.
Dock launches, sliding & downwind again By Monday morning, everyone, including all the lost luggage (more later) had arrived safely. After our first "hot dog 'n eggs" breakfast prepared by the house chefs, we ride all morning and get some crazy awesome video footage using the Jet Ski (before it brakes down 400 yards offshore). That afternoon, the wind picks up a bit and we’re off to the lagoons. We rig in the parking lot, launch the kites, and then walk to the end of the pier where, those daring enough, jump off and ride.
Watching Liquid Force’s Davey Blair & GK’s Noah Simon throwing boosted kite loop handle passes, inspired me to kick it up a notch. So, I launched from the pier, took one tack, and then headed straight back at full speed. The goal was to "slide the dock," which actually went really well. That is until one of my fins got caught in between to boards. Luckily, only my face smacked the water. After a short recovery, the entire crew did the same 4-mile downwinder back to the house...which is when I decided to try my next new trick on the previous days discovery.
Boat, Land, & Kite Jumps I could write pages on all the crazy stuff we did in Cozumel. But to keep it simple...you know the "Catch the Wave" ferry discovered the previous day, well, I climbed up and jumped off it. Covered in rust and slick with algae, it was the scariest thing I’ve ever tried kiting. Even though I slipped off with my head barely clearing the edge, I would do it again!
Waves & Reefs When a front brought on SouthEast winds, Adrian took us all to Punta Sur national park, on Cozumel's south side. In this secluded pristine natural reserve, we had 22-27kts of side on winds, and 4-8ft high waves rolling in from the swells. This was a day that tested everyone's skills. With more than 5 miles of coastline to explore, we explored it all. Then, finished the day at Coconuts, watching the sunset over a cervesa.
On day four, we’re back at the lagoons. This time boats haul us to a secluded sandbar on the island's north side. A virgin kite spot for retreaters, we had 25 kts wind with lagoon flats on one side and smooth Caribbean chop on the other. Many dared jumping over sandbars, trees, people, and other kites. The most memorable jump was when Litewave Dave held up a beer on the sandbar as Davey Blair comes racing full speed toward it from the lagoon side. He jumps the bar, grabbing the beer from Dave's hand. And, as he floats across the land, takes a huge gulp and then throws down the can before landing with style on the other side.
More More More The few things highlighted above are just a glimpse of what you’ll likely experience in Cozumel. I can tell you, by the fifth day, we had kited so much, most of us were almost too soar to get back on the water, almost. But once we launched, the extreme just kept happening. We’re actually making a movie so we can share the retreat in hi-fi detail.
Beyond Wind
There is little “chill” in Cozumel. In fact, the energy is almost overwhelming! There was always something to do (and spend our money on). We needed a vacation after this last Air Retreat just to rest up. When there’s no wind, we went snorkeling, scuba diving, fishing, shopping, eating, and ruin exploring.
Since getting to Cozumel is quick and cheap, party ready people are everywhere as Yucatan darkness brings life. After sunset, we found ourselves touring the streets in modified VW Bugs called “mini hummers.” Mornings were tougher as nights typically ended with meringue music imprinted on the brain. This cruise ship central has downtown streets lined with tequila bearing, whistle blowing shot police. You could go all night. Many of us did, often.
I can tell you that without Adrian Angulo Romero, founder of CozumelKiteboarding.com, this last retreat would have been disastrous. While the kiting was epic, everything broke (i.e., lost luggage, mini hummers, water, electricity, rescue boats, back up rescue boats, etc.). Adrian knows everyone and every spot on the island. He’s an awesome guide, host, and now close friend of ours. If you need something, he'll tell you the best place to get it, eat it, do it or fix it. And, likely introduce you to the owners. Be sure to check out his roof-top restaurant, Especias. His door is always open.
Cozumel Kiteboarding Guide
Highlighted places of interest After a Cozumel wave session enjoy chips and drinks at Coconuts. Look for our signed T-Shirt up in the rafters of this open air, cliff top grille. Of course there’s plenty of snorkeling and scuba diving. Try exploring the local Mayan ruins and worship at “the temple of the wind.”
Visas/Airport Info
There’s daily direct flights from most major USA hubs into Cozumel International (CZM). Passports are required for all Americans. Some find cheaper flights into Cancun (CUN) and then take the ferry over to Cozumel.
Currency
Everyone takes the American Dollar. Right now things are cheaper than using the Mexican Peso. We typically keep cash light and use plastic as it’s easier to keep money saved, and safe. Yucatan locals are hagglers. If you let them, they will screw you, even at the gas station. However, you can also score an awesome deal if your negotiating skills are tuned up. Water (can u drink it)
Nope. If it goes in your mouth, get it from a bottled source. Cervesa is always safe, just be sure to buy it before 2pm on Sundays.
Language
Spanish. Though most can help you in English.
Cuisine
Cozumel is 100% tourism. So if you stick with the main hangouts, you’ll pay high US prices for average food ($15 – 75). But, take it to a side street and you’ll find plenty of taco stands serving simple grilled meats and veggies in corn wrappers ($3-5). For sure you must visit Especias. With a fusion of Argentinain and Asian flavors, this roof top patio LOVES kiteboarders. Get the “steamed fish,” it’s dang good!
Lodging (listing budget, middle of road, luxury and pricing)
While you might save a few $ nightly, if you’re going to kite, then stay in Cozumel’s Country Club estates. You’ll save more on gas and time then staying in town. Plush condos start at $100 / night with beach front houses ranging $300 – 600 night.
Internet availability
Most places you’ll stay in have it. If not, there’s several internet cafes.
Phones
Cell phones work great here. To avoid roaming charges, be sure to sign up for a plan such as Verizon’s North American package.
Kiteboarding shops and spots
The local shop carries some gear, but be sure to bring spare parts and fix kits. Gear, guides and lessons are all available from cozumelkiteboarding.com. Oh yeah, watch your kite pump, they are rare commodities around here.
Wind and weather typical conditions
Predominant winds are NE 15-20kt trade winds from November -May. Riding conditions vary from flat to waves to chop.
Web resources
You’ll find all the info for travel, weather and kiting at cozumelkiteboarding.com
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